Shenzhen-based 3D printer manufacturer Bambu Lab has launched a new firmware for its X1 Series of 3D printers. The optional security update introduces authorization and authentication controls for key 3D printing operations, altering how third-party software interacts with the 3D printer.
Some in the 3D printing community have not received the news well, leading to Bambu Lab refuting claims that the firmware, currently undergoing beta testing, restricts third-party tools or forces users into a closed ecosystem. Those who choose not to install the update can continue using external software without any changes. The company has also introduced a new tool called Bambu Connect, designed to integrate third-party software with updated printers. Bambu Lab is collaborating with software developers, including Orca Slicer, to ensure a seamless connection with external tools.
Just gettin into 3d printing. Gonna build this instead of buying a Bambu
Does anyone know when the P-series will be affected?
Considering LAN-mode and Tailscale for remote access, but it is interesting to see if people find it viable or if other alternatives pop up from people smarter than myself.
“Bambu Lab has directly challenged what it calls “unfortunate misinformation circulating online.””
When an organization starts defending themselves by pointing fingers at “misinformation” you know the public’s accusations were onto something.
They will pause the real plan a few months until everyone forgets then start firing off those forced updates. By then people will be so exhausted from being outraged they’ll just let it through without even a mention.
How to destroy community goodwill 101.
Just sounds like they’re saying the “slippery slope” is false, but everything else stated was true.
3d party accessories are being disabled, and you can only use network connectivity if you connect to the cloud. They’ll have a solution for using Orca Slicer, but it still needs to phone home to work.
Glad I stayed away from Bambu and went with a printer that doesn’t need anything outside my network to use all the features I paid for.
What did you end up buying? I’m leaning towards Prusa again, was looking at Creality but I’m not wanting to tinker around much with that stuff anymore.
Take a week and build a Voron. The kits are super easy to piece together and you end up with an insanely great, reliable printer for a fraction what it should cost. Yes, the build time and initial calibration might take a bit, but mine’s been without issue, printing 24h long prints perfectly for over a year now. You don’t need to settle for a mediocre built printer if you have the patience to piece together one. Not to mention, since you built the kit, you know how to troubleshoot any issues that pop up much faster than something you pulled out of a box and plugged into the wall.
2x on the recommendation. I’ve been slowly modding mine for about two years now. I printed the filter and magnetic panels right out of the gate.
Things I wish I did sooner:
- sexbolt aka a z-endstop switch that won’t fall out when turn your printer out or get pulled out by your extruder when you’re printing TPU
- moar bed fans to get chamber temps up faster
- daylight on a stick
- LDO NiteHawk and umbilical. The third wire break was enough for me. I didn’t use cheap wiring, but I did use generic chains. I thought I left enough slack in the runs, but evidently you want loose loose wires in the chains so they don’t rub the inner radius
- ACM panels to help get chamber temps up. Bonus points if you print your magnetic panels clips a bit taller to fit radiant barriers on the inside
- Clicky-clacky fridge door replaces the front doors with a wider panel and gives it a nice seal. It’s also satisfying to open/close
Other than wiring breaks, and me goobering my hod end while goofing with it, it’s been dead reliable. The printer has 906 hours on it with the longest print clicking in at 25.5 hours.
As someone who is currently building an LDO Voron (Voron 2.4 LDO Rev. D) most of those things are already included (like the Z-end-stop, the NiteHawk and panels)
Unless something has changed, it looks like the LDO kits still come with acrylic panels? ACM panels are an aluminum, plastic, aluminum sandwich. You cant see through them. I also didn’t see the sex bolt or door.
Enjoy the build! The LDO kits are a solid base to start from.
Thanks, yeah following the voron guide was straight forward but the LDO documentation was a bit getting used to. Some things were poorly explained while others were not mentioned at all (like the LED light assembly) but by far better than having to source everything on my own.
Thanks for this insight! Thanks to everyone that replied really. I’m good with building, just hate endless tweaking and tuning. Will research Voron.
There’s no need to tweak and tune. I am in the camp of having a printer to print things, vs endlessly tune the printer, and my Voron is set it and forget it at this point. There are some mods worth going after for quality of life, but none are really necessary. I put a list into another reply to the person you just replied to.
I went from a Creality printer to a Prusa Mk4s on the last black friday sale. What sold me was that as they make new machines, you can just buy a kit to upgrade to the next version, instead of needing to buy a whole new printer. They’re also based in the EU, so even if they wanted to, they couldn’t do anything too bad in regards to privacy.
Doesn’t matter tho, cause I won’t turn on the cloud printing stuff, since I don’t see any benefit. Everything can be done exactly the same way without requiring external services.
Hard to make a good recommendation right now. Prusa really didn’t impress with the core one because they are still using their old bed size (z height isn’t important at all for me) and the MMU just isn’t as good as the AMS. Creality still has OQC issues that enough people encounter even on their high end printers.
Is the Anycubic Kobra with the ACE any decent? Its on sale for what looks like a good price but I dont know anything about quality and out of the box ability
Solvo is looking pretty solid too. Proudly open source, inexpensive, feature rich.
owning, and dealing with the regular issues of, a Sovol SV07 is what made me buy a P1S + AMS combo in the first place
Sovol is building on top of open source but their software sharing is questionable. I do own their SV07 and if I wanted to reflash klipper, I would have to reverse engineer the printer as they ship only binaries for firmware…
I wouldn’t lean too much on their open source sales point. Yes, it’s open source, but there isn’t much more to that than a custom config for Klipper. The engineering diagrams on their GitHub are mainly just standard measurements for fans and such. They do include their own custom parts measurements, so that is nice.
Cheap printers come with cheap parts and sub-par QA. I have heard great things about Sovol, but also very bad things about Sovol.
The SV08 has been around long enough now so maybe most of the bugs are worked out. If Sovol didn’t solve some problems, the community likely did. It’s the nature of 3D printing communities, after all.
If you want a cheap printer to be a workhorse, it needs to be disassembled completely and rebuilt after inspecting and replacing any critical parts with quality ones.
These kinds of printers are just what they are. They work great until they don’t.
I have any Anycubic and I’ve been pretty happy with it.
The Kobra with the ACE? How was it out of the box?
Nope, one of the Photon ones. Still worked great out of the box. I cant comment on their FDM printer unfortunately.
