Shenzhen-based 3D printer manufacturer Bambu Lab has launched a new firmware for its X1 Series of 3D printers. The optional security update introduces authorization and authentication controls for key 3D printing operations, altering how third-party software interacts with the 3D printer.

Some in the 3D printing community have not received the news well, leading to Bambu Lab refuting claims that the firmware, currently undergoing beta testing, restricts third-party tools or forces users into a closed ecosystem. Those who choose not to install the update can continue using external software without any changes. The company has also introduced a new tool called Bambu Connect, designed to integrate third-party software with updated printers. Bambu Lab is collaborating with software developers, including Orca Slicer, to ensure a seamless connection with external tools.

  • pulverizedcoccyx@lemmy.ca
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    11
    ·
    18 hours ago

    What did you end up buying? I’m leaning towards Prusa again, was looking at Creality but I’m not wanting to tinker around much with that stuff anymore.

    • atomic peachA
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      9
      arrow-down
      1
      ·
      14 hours ago

      Take a week and build a Voron. The kits are super easy to piece together and you end up with an insanely great, reliable printer for a fraction what it should cost. Yes, the build time and initial calibration might take a bit, but mine’s been without issue, printing 24h long prints perfectly for over a year now. You don’t need to settle for a mediocre built printer if you have the patience to piece together one. Not to mention, since you built the kit, you know how to troubleshoot any issues that pop up much faster than something you pulled out of a box and plugged into the wall.

      • IMALlama@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        7
        ·
        edit-2
        12 hours ago

        2x on the recommendation. I’ve been slowly modding mine for about two years now. I printed the filter and magnetic panels right out of the gate.

        Things I wish I did sooner:

        • sexbolt aka a z-endstop switch that won’t fall out when turn your printer out or get pulled out by your extruder when you’re printing TPU
        • moar bed fans to get chamber temps up faster
        • daylight on a stick
        • LDO NiteHawk and umbilical. The third wire break was enough for me. I didn’t use cheap wiring, but I did use generic chains. I thought I left enough slack in the runs, but evidently you want loose loose wires in the chains so they don’t rub the inner radius
        • ACM panels to help get chamber temps up. Bonus points if you print your magnetic panels clips a bit taller to fit radiant barriers on the inside
        • Clicky-clacky fridge door replaces the front doors with a wider panel and gives it a nice seal. It’s also satisfying to open/close

        Other than wiring breaks, and me goobering my hod end while goofing with it, it’s been dead reliable. The printer has 906 hours on it with the longest print clicking in at 25.5 hours.

        • Fribbtastic@lemmy.world
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          4
          ·
          9 hours ago

          As someone who is currently building an LDO Voron (Voron 2.4 LDO Rev. D) most of those things are already included (like the Z-end-stop, the NiteHawk and panels)

          • IMALlama@lemmy.world
            link
            fedilink
            English
            arrow-up
            1
            ·
            3 hours ago

            Unless something has changed, it looks like the LDO kits still come with acrylic panels? ACM panels are an aluminum, plastic, aluminum sandwich. You cant see through them. I also didn’t see the sex bolt or door.

            Enjoy the build! The LDO kits are a solid base to start from.

            • Fribbtastic@lemmy.world
              link
              fedilink
              English
              arrow-up
              1
              ·
              2 hours ago

              Thanks, yeah following the voron guide was straight forward but the LDO documentation was a bit getting used to. Some things were poorly explained while others were not mentioned at all (like the LED light assembly) but by far better than having to source everything on my own.

      • pulverizedcoccyx@lemmy.ca
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        3
        ·
        13 hours ago

        Thanks for this insight! Thanks to everyone that replied really. I’m good with building, just hate endless tweaking and tuning. Will research Voron.

        • IMALlama@lemmy.world
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          3
          ·
          13 hours ago

          There’s no need to tweak and tune. I am in the camp of having a printer to print things, vs endlessly tune the printer, and my Voron is set it and forget it at this point. There are some mods worth going after for quality of life, but none are really necessary. I put a list into another reply to the person you just replied to.

    • mipadaitu@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      11
      ·
      17 hours ago

      I went from a Creality printer to a Prusa Mk4s on the last black friday sale. What sold me was that as they make new machines, you can just buy a kit to upgrade to the next version, instead of needing to buy a whole new printer. They’re also based in the EU, so even if they wanted to, they couldn’t do anything too bad in regards to privacy.

      Doesn’t matter tho, cause I won’t turn on the cloud printing stuff, since I don’t see any benefit. Everything can be done exactly the same way without requiring external services.

    • stealth_cookies@lemmy.ca
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      6
      ·
      16 hours ago

      Hard to make a good recommendation right now. Prusa really didn’t impress with the core one because they are still using their old bed size (z height isn’t important at all for me) and the MMU just isn’t as good as the AMS. Creality still has OQC issues that enough people encounter even on their high end printers.

      • Nindelofocho@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        1
        ·
        15 hours ago

        Is the Anycubic Kobra with the ACE any decent? Its on sale for what looks like a good price but I dont know anything about quality and out of the box ability

      • lapis@lemmy.blahaj.zone
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        4
        ·
        16 hours ago

        owning, and dealing with the regular issues of, a Sovol SV07 is what made me buy a P1S + AMS combo in the first place

      • j4n3z@lemm.ee
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        4
        ·
        17 hours ago

        Sovol is building on top of open source but their software sharing is questionable. I do own their SV07 and if I wanted to reflash klipper, I would have to reverse engineer the printer as they ship only binaries for firmware…

      • remotelove@lemmy.ca
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        2
        ·
        16 hours ago

        I wouldn’t lean too much on their open source sales point. Yes, it’s open source, but there isn’t much more to that than a custom config for Klipper. The engineering diagrams on their GitHub are mainly just standard measurements for fans and such. They do include their own custom parts measurements, so that is nice.

        Cheap printers come with cheap parts and sub-par QA. I have heard great things about Sovol, but also very bad things about Sovol.

        The SV08 has been around long enough now so maybe most of the bugs are worked out. If Sovol didn’t solve some problems, the community likely did. It’s the nature of 3D printing communities, after all.

        If you want a cheap printer to be a workhorse, it needs to be disassembled completely and rebuilt after inspecting and replacing any critical parts with quality ones.

        These kinds of printers are just what they are. They work great until they don’t.